Bookbinding
Purpose and vision for bookbinding ¶
- to be able to bind all my notebooks and other materials I may need
- the resulting bound articles need to be usable and look presentable
Next steps for bookbinding ¶
- bind a new codex for 2025
- try with a pocket on the back cover
Notes and thoughts around bookbinding ¶
It was common practice for the bookseller to offer the loose pages of a book in a package which the buyer would subsequently arrange to have bound in accordance with his or her taste and financial means.
Dr. Lorenza Smith, Aldo Manuzio (Aldus Manutius): inventor of the modern book
Binding an A5 Notebook ¶
- 72 sheets of paper
- 9 signatures of 8 sheets each
- 32 pages per signature, 288 pages in total
- 70–90
- natural white over pure white
- endpaper
- 100–160
- cover material
- buckram with paper backing
- 2mm cardboard
- other materials
- glue
- needle and thread (I use nylon)
- loosely woven fabric, for reinforcing the text block’s spine
- fold the sheets into signatures
- punch an even number of holes along the fold
- e.g. 10 holes for an A4 over 21cm at ~2cm apart
- note: try 6 the next time:
|_•____•__•____•__•____•_|
- note: try 6 the next time:
- try to be as exact as possible or you’ll end up having to cut the text block straight after sewing and gluing
- e.g. 10 holes for an A4 over 21cm at ~2cm apart
- press the signatures before sewing
- sew the signatures together
- tighten the signature once it’s been sewed to the previous ones, before a kettle stitch and moving onto the next one
- don’t over tighten or you’ll risk tearing the paper or creating a bow in the spine, i.e. the open edges start to fan out
- when the text block is done, jog the block to the top and to the spine for alignment
- clamp down the text block leaving the spine exposed for gluing and glue the spine cloth to the spine
- leave the overhangs free since the endpapers need to be placed between them and the first and the last page
- when the glue has dried, fold the endpapers and glue a centimeter wide band near the fold and attach it to the first page, then glue the spine cloth to the endpaper
- repeat it for the other side
- cut covers and the spine board out of the cardboard
- the text block will extend beyond the front and back covers towards the spine board when be book is closed
- the cover would be approximately the size of the text block plus 4mm for a 2mm overhangs on the top and the bottom plus 5mm overhang on the fore edge
- the spine board will be the same height as the covers and its width is the width of the text block with the width of the covers added to it
- the text block will extend beyond the front and back covers towards the spine board when be book is closed
- for gluing the boards to the cover material, cut 6mm spacers to get a consistent distance between the spine and the cover boards
- leave about 2cm overhang when cutting the cover cloth to size and cut the corners at 45° 1.5 times the board thickness away from the board or at 3mm
- I like to do these flaps to wrap around and fully cover the corners
- glue the head and tail cloth with the flaps before folding and gluing the fore edge over them
- press and leave to dry
- test the fit once the cover has dried
- At this stage it may be warped due to the cover cloth and the glue pulling it that way. Gluing the endpapers makes them pull the cover back straight
- before gluing the case to the end papers, painters’ tape the case fore edges for alignment guide
- then glue one of the end papers, align with the tape, and glue to the case, then the other side
- press the book and leave to dry
Material desires related to bookbinding ¶
- curved needle
- a larger flat brush for gluing
- thin ribbon in at least two colors—black and red/blue for bookmarks
- black endpapers
- black cover cloth
Aevum Linea ¶
- 28E11 - bound the first notebook
Elsewhere: ideas-for-art, The Lighthouse of Tastes and Æsthetics, Notebook